When phylloxera, a devastating plant parasite, struck French vineyards in the 19th century, it caused catastrophic damage. It is estimated that more than 70 per cent of vines were destroyed in Bordeaux alone.
At the time, the Negotin Valley survived thanks to its favorable climate and geographical conditions, transforming the region into a major new wine exporter for the entire continent. The inhabitants of Rajac seized the opportunity to expand their viticulture, becoming renowned far and wide for their indigenous grape varieties and fine wines.
Today, their traditional wine cellars built from dressed stone - the famous Rajačke pivnice - may not be as bustling as they once were, but that is beginning to change.
We spoke with Jelena Zagorac from the Youth of Rajačke Pivnice association about the history and significance of the region.
To start with, she explained that almost every visitor asks why they are called pivnice when they have nothing to do with beer (pivo in Serbian) and are all about wine.
"In Church Slavonic, the word pivo has a general meaning and translates to drink, beverage, or that which is drunk. The root comes from the Proto-Slavic verb piti (to drink), while the suffix -vo denotes the result of the action. You'll hear the clearest explanation of this in monasteries or churches. So, wine has always been drunk at the Rajačke Pivnice, and the name stuck as part of the language and tradition we proudly preserve today. However, as the term pimnica is also frequently heard in the local dialect of the Negotin Valley, that variant has also become a recognised localism. Both terms exist, but pivnice is the name under which the complex is historically recognised as protected cultural heritage," our interviewee pointed out.
Once these terms were clarified, we were ready to explore further.
Reviving East Serbia’s viticulture
The Association’s goal is clear: they want to breathe new life into viticulture in eastern Serbia and restore its former glory.
It was founded a few years ago by Nemanja Milanović, Ivana Mišić, Miloš Mišić, Filip Paunković, and Jelena Zagorac, with several international members joining along the way. While some were already familiar with winegrowing, others never imagined they would end up in the business.
Jelena used to live in Belgrade and Novi Sad, but decided a few years ago to return to her birthplace - hardly a surprise given that she belongs to the seventh generation of a winemaking family. Today, she successfully manages the Zagorac cellar, developing new grape varieties and ideas while mastering the craft of viticulture.
"It wasn’t easy at the start. We had plenty of enthusiasm, but also faced many unexpected challenges. By establishing the Association, we wanted to show that the Rajačke Pivnice are not just a piece of cultural heritage to be preserved, but a living place that can thrive through wine, tourism, and the local community. That was our initial vision, and things naturally gravitated towards winemaking. Today, we are all dedicated to crafting wine. Significant progress has been made - more cellars are being restored, visitor numbers are rising due to wine tourism, and more young people are showing an interest in staying or returning to develop family wineries. Something is brewing in the air, and I think this region is set to explode," she noted.
Through the Association, they organise numerous events, workshops, and promotional campaigns, working closely with institutions and international partners to establish the Rajačke Pivnice as a unique wine destination.
She pointed out that the region is famed for its indigenous varieties - principally bagrina and začinak - as well as high-quality wines made from international varieties that express a distinct local terroir here.
"What sets us apart is the blend of tradition and authenticity. Here, wine isn't just a product; it's part of people's identity and culture. Wines from the Negotin Valley were once served at the royal court, which speaks volumes about their reputation and quality. Winemakers from the Rajačke Pivnice won silver and bronze medals for their red wines in London back in 1906, marking one of the significant international accolades of that era," Jelena highlighted, adding that the Serbian wine scene has experienced remarkable growth over the last 15 years.
"We have an increasing number of high-quality wineries, educated winemakers, and wines winning international awards. Of course, we cannot compete on volume with major wine-producing nations, but that's precisely where our advantage lies. We can offer authenticity, small batches, indigenous varieties, and a genuine story behind every bottle. That is what modern wine lovers are increasingly seeking, and why Serbia is becoming more visible on the global wine map. What I find particularly exciting is the emergence of small family wineries over the past couple of years - including our own. Small batches, boutique stories, local grape varieties - it all leaves a personal signature that people remember," she added.
Preserving the Rajačke Pivnice is bigger than a single village
According to Zagorac, the number of active family wineries producing wine and welcoming visitors at the Rajačke Pivnice is still modest, but it is steadily growing. The stone structures are quite old and require better preservation. Beyond infrastructure challenges, winemakers must also contend with climate change, alongside a need for greater promotion and support for small-scale producers.
"We are feeling the impact of climate change firsthand. Prolonged dry spells, high temperatures, and extreme weather events that affect grape yield and quality are becoming more frequent. Over the past two years, we suffered devastating hailstorms. Grape growers are adapting through different vineyard management techniques, careful soil conservation, and selecting suitable varieties and technologies. It's a process that requires considerable knowledge, investment, and constant adaptation. On top of that, every family winery invests a massive amount of labor and capital to preserve production quality and local authenticity - no easy task these days," she said.
The Rajačke Pivnice represent a unique complex of wine cellars, which is why they deserve infrastructure that supports sustainable development.
"Further investments are needed in the water supply, electrical grid, access roads, parking, signage, and digital infrastructure. At the same time, any interventions must be carefully planned to preserve the authenticity and appearance of this exceptional cultural heritage site. Preserving the cellars is not just an issue for one village or municipality; it's about preserving a vital piece of Serbia's cultural and winemaking heritage," Jelena stressed.
What do the visitors say?
Apart from asking about the difference between pivnice and pimnica, visitors most frequently remark that they did not expect to discover such an authentic place.
"People are fascinated by the fact that an entire stone settlement of wine cellars exists and remains alive today. We welcome guests from Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, the wider region, as well as Western Europe and further afield - especially those passionate about wine and cultural tourism. I would recommend everyone to come not just for a wine tasting, but to take the time to chat with the hosts, stroll through the cellars, tour the vineyards, and learn about the history of this region. It’s the people and their stories that make this place truly special," she concluded.
(EUpravo zato)